Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line

Editor's note:

Every day we flood through the turnstiles, board Metro trains and watch somewhat disinterestedly as stations flash past the window. Aside from taking us to work, shopping, entertainment and social engagements, the Metro system is also an ideal gateway for sightseeing. As Shanghai Metro is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, this series will travel along Metro lines, hopping off at stations to explore local attractions.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line

Illustration by Amanda Monkey

Metro Line 1

Metro Line 1, as its name suggests, was the first put into operation. It connects the northeastern and southwestern parts of Shanghai, from Baoshan to Minhang, and runs through the very heart of the city. Along the line, the history of the city unfolds in parks, residences of former luminaries and elegant old neighborhoods. It is also the gateway to Shanghai's first theme park and first botanical garden.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

This park, now 18 years old, is the largest greenery area in Puxi. The park is busiest every March, when vast beds of tulips come into full bloom. Millions of tulips in numerous varieties, all introduced from the Netherlands, dress the park in a colorful sea in early spring.

Address: 288 Guangzhong Rd W.

广中西路288号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

The origin of the park is actually the grave of Song Jiaoren (1883-1913), a revolutionist who was assassinated after leading the Kuomintang to a win in a national election.

In 1946, the Shanghai government decided to renovate the grave and opened it as a park.

A corner of the park is devoted to Chinese tea ceremony culture. A statue of Lu Yu (AD 733-804) commemorates the "Tea Saint," an ancient master who dedicated his entire life to studying tea and its culture.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Address: 1555 Gonghexin Rd

共和新路1555号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Technically, the Shanghai Science Hall isn't considered a sightseeing spot. It's a conference venue owned by the Shanghai Science and Technology Commission, but that doesn't mean you can't get in and sneak some snaps.

The two-story building was originally a French-style villa with a large garden, completed in 1926. It first served as a French school, changing to its current purpose in 1958. Chen Yi, the first mayor of Shanghai after the People's Republic of China was established, wrote the inscription "ke xue hui tang" (science hall) for the site.

On a typical afternoon, entering the building feels like walking into a European palace. Lattice windows cast light and shadows along a long corridor. The walls are filled with old black-and-white photos of historical events.

The corridor leads to the main hall of the villa, where a huge stained-glass window covers an entire wall. On a sunny day, the yellows and greens of the window are reflected on a polished wood floor, creating a dreamy view.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Most of the rooms in the villa have been modified into conference rooms, but small meeting spaces in hallways are more impressive than the grand halls.

In some of those spaces, Chinese-style decorations, such as lanterns, inscribed boards and screens, mix with Western-style sofas and carpets. It is a harmony of opposites.

Roaming around the villa, you might be stopped by security guards, but they are usually quite understanding of curiosity about the venue. If you ask them nicely, they usually allow you to linger.

Address: 47 Nanchang Rd

南昌路47号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Adjacent to the building is Fuxing Park, one of the earliest in Shanghai. Built around a century ago on a barracks site, it is one of the best-preserved French-style gardens in China.

A grand sunken flower bed with a fountain dominates the park. A monument to René Vallon, a French pilot who died in an aerobatic flight over Shanghai in 1911, was removed in the 1950s.

The garden has been modified and expanded over the years to become something more than just a French garden. A Chinese-style pond and rockeries have been added, and a statue of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels erected in 1985 has become another icon of the park.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Address: 105 Yandang Rd

雁荡路105号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

The area around the Changshu Road Station is full of "Old Shanghai." Century-old lanes are dotted with Western-style houses and villas that once housed famous writers, actors, artists and dignitaries. Many of the residences are still occupied.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line

Guanghua Lane – former residence of Hu Die

Guanghua Lane on Julu Road has one villa hiding inside the lane. The salmon-colored brick house was the former residence of actress Hu Die (1908-89). She lived there for a year in 1932 before getting married and moving elsewhere. Her fame at the time was enough to attract fans to pay a visit. The house has been redecorated by its current owner, and its look has changed a lot.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line

Former residence of Ba Jin

A 15-minute walk from the station takes you to the former residence of Ba Jin on Wukang Road. The writer, one of the most significant literary figures of modern China, lived there for more than 40 years until his death in 2005. He was a master of chronicling changes in society in the early 20th century.

A decade ago, Ba's family modified the house into a small museum housing the writer's books, letters, papers and household furnishings. Trees and flowers planted by Ba still grow in the garden outside.

It's a pity that the museum doesn't allow photography inside.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line

Former residence of Cai Yuanpei

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line

Former residence of Ke Ling

Other notable former residences in the area include the homes of educator Cai Yuanpei (1868-1940) and journalist and writer Ke Ling (1909-2000). Some of the homes are open to the public.

Former residence of Hu Die

Address: No 13, 786 Julu Rd

巨鹿路786弄13号

Former residence of Ba Jin

Address: 113 Wukang Rd

武康路113号

Former residence of Cai Yuanpei

Address: No. 16, 303 Huashan Rd

华山路303弄16号

Former residence of Ke Ling

Address: Room 203, 147 Fuxing Rd W.

复兴西路147号203室

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

The Xujiahui area is known for its bustling shopping malls, but it also holds part of the city's history. The cathedral and park date back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).

Better known as Xujiahui Cathedral, the Gothic-style St. Ignatius Cathedral has been called the "largest church in the Far East." Its red-brick fa?ade and the two soaring pinnacles make it a landmark of the area.

In 2017, the cathedral reopened to the public after two years of renovation. The stained-glass windows and gargoyles on the eaves have all been returned to their original look.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Address: 158 Puxi Rd

浦西路158号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

North of the cathedral is Guangqi Park, which is home to the tomb of Xu Guangqi (1562-1633), a scientist and Catholic convert during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). His tomb was moved to its current location in 1903 by the local parish. After sustaining serious damage, the tomb was restored in 2003 to its original look.

The tomb reflects both traditional Ming and classic Roman Catholic styles. The path leading to the tomb is flanked by sculptures of mythical creatures and statues of officials. A giant white cross sits atop the tomb.

Address: 17 Nandan Rd

南丹路17号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

The Zikawei Library is a new cultural landmark in Xuhui District. Zikawei refers to Xujiahui with Shanghai dialect elements involved.

The library covering 18,650 square meters is located in the core area of Xujiahuiyuan, which is a 4A tourist attraction. Xujiahuiyuan is also known as the "origin of haipai (Shanghai-style) culture."

It boasts about 800 seats for readers, and has two floors underground and three floors above ground.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

As a comprehensive library, it incorporates literature reading, a reading area for children, exhibition and lecture spaces, art appreciation, culture bazaar and tourist information services and functions.

It also has collections of "The Yongle Canon," an ancient encyclopedia, and the Si Ku Quan Shu, or the imperial collection of literature in four divisions, a collection of ancient literature compiled in the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), the treasures of the library.

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

Address: 158 Caoxi Rd N.

漕溪北路158号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

As the first botanical garden in the city, the 45-year-old park has not lost its charm. Every year, the spring and autumn flower expositions there attract tens of thousands of people from all over the country. In the early days of June, when the heat of summer begins to set in, the Shanghai Botanical Garden is a place of respite where visitors can find relief under the shade of ancient trees. Exotic flowers in full bloom create a tapestry of color, and the air is rich with the scent of fresh green foliage.

Address: 997 Longwu Rd

龙吴路997号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 

As the first theme park in Shanghai, Jinjiang Park is in the memory book of many Shanghai locals who experienced their very first rides on a rollercoaster, a Ferris wheel and a merry-go-round. The park nowadays has lost much of its uniqueness as newer, larger and more exciting competitors opened in the city, but it still attracts people with special events such as food festivals held every summer.

Address: 201 Hongmei Rd

虹梅路201号

Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line
 
Going off track for outings on city's first Metro line