Copy Editor's Note: We first covered chef Yoshiro Narisawa's namesake Shanghai restaurant back in July, before it earned its Michelin star just over two weeks ago. Shanghai has seen many big names come and go, but Narisawa stands out – not just for his boundary-pushing culinary philosophy (which he shares below), but for food that feels unpretentious. The service, celebrating China's exceptional, often-overlooked ingredients, and the overall experience is worth it. This interview feels especially timely as chef Narisawa is in Shanghai this weekend for one day only to unveil Narisawa's new menu.

For some chefs, cooking is a job. For others, it's a craft. But for Yoshihiro Narisawa it's a philosophy. With his Shanghai outpost earning its first Michelin Star, we caught up with Narisawa-san to learn more about what inspires his cooking and how even a humble shiitake mushroom can make a masterful dish.

CNS: You use the word "satoyama" to describe your cooking philosophy. What does it mean?

It means expressing the wisdom of life and food culture that arise from places where people and nature interact – not only in Japan but also around the world – through cooking.

CNS: You source as many ingredients locally as possible. What is the biggest challenge to finding trustworthy suppliers?

In Japan, I can go to the producers myself and see the production sites firsthand. China, of course, has no shortage of suppliers, but my restaurant here has been open for only a year. There are still so many places to visit, so many different farmers and suppliers to meet, and so many ingredients to try and see what I can incorporate into my dishes.

CNS: You emphasize sustainability in your cooking. Are there any ingredients you refuse to cook with for sustainability reasons?

Wild ingredients have their limitations. As China's population grows and its standard of living rises, the people here are demanding better food. But you can get great farmed ingredients here and not have to worry about depleting wild animal populations. One example is the sturgeon. They raise wonderful sturgeon in Qiandao Lake, and we get incredible caviar from them.

CNS: What about a fish like tuna, which I hear is quite difficult to domesticate?

I don't really mind using fish like bluefin tuna, but since they are apex predators, greater care must be taken when it comes to how many we catch. It's important to be mindful of the population, so we can maintain balance in our oceans. Meanwhile, the quality of farmed tuna in Japan is gradually improving. So, hopefully, that will eventually help to relieve the pressure on the world's wild tuna populations.

CNS: Why did you choose Shanghai as the city for your second restaurant?

Japan has been so deeply influenced by Chinese culture. This applies to food, ceramics, artwork – so many things! Study Japan for long enough, and you'll find that so many things ultimately lead to China.

CNS: Are there any uniquely Chinese ingredients that you are excited about?

What first caught my attention in Chinese cuisine was dried ingredients, like fish. I think it's interesting how so much of Chinese cuisine focuses on drying and preserving ingredients. Chinese tea culture is also interesting. Tea is a major cultural aspect and a big part of shared meals. That culture connects people's health to their eating habits.

CNS: What is your favorite ingredient to cook with?

Any kind of seasonal vegetable. For example, in early spring I love small soybeans, young green asparagus, cabbage, and onions.

CNS: Do you find any ingredient to be overrated?

I like eating. So, every ingredient is appreciated by someone. Caviar has a definite allure to it. There is nothing in the world that matches the fragrance of a good truffle. Matsutake mushrooms, despite being plentiful and therefore not deemed as precious, have wonderful flavor and aroma too. People tend to value scarce ingredients, but something more common and humble can be incredible too, like shiitake mushrooms. They're great and an important part of my Gion Matsuri-themed dish.

CNS: What is your favorite comfort food?

Simple Italian-style pasta. I love olives too!

CNS: What's next for Narisawa?

I would like to do some kind of crossover concept with a street fashion brand, the kind of thing you see in Shibuya or Harajuku. I want to develop a menu around the aesthetics of a luxury fashion brand like LV or Gucci. That will be something to look for in the future.

CNS: What would you do with your life if you weren't a chef?

I'd be an architect. I already do some architecture, actually. I have designed both of my restaurants. But as a chef... I think the number one reason I am one, is that I like seeing people enjoying their food, smiling, and being happy. The second reason is that I like delicious things. Those two reasons.

Narisawa is launching its new menu in Shanghai this weekend, with chef Yoshiro Narisawa at the helm. He is here for one day only, so if you want a spot (they are limited), add this WeChat for details: narisawash.