Jiang Mengyu,Lu Feiran|2023-09-19
Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3

Editor's note:

Metro Line 3 subtly avoids the most popular business areas and the sightseeing circuit, keeping them just at arm's length. Along the north-south line stretch residential complexes, old and new, one after another. But that doesn't mean there aren't some worthy stops along the route to find hidden gems easily overlooked by most tourists to Shanghai.

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3

Illustration by Amanda Monkey

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3

Duolun Road is full of old Western-style villas built in the 1920s and 30s. Despite efforts to renovate the area into a commercial zone like Xintiandi or Hengshan Road, the road has managed to avoid over-commercialization.

The merits of that may be open to debate, but for visitors, it is definitely a good thing because they can experience the real vibes of life in this historical part of the city.

Two dramatically distinct groups had homes in the area in the early part of the last century. One group was comprised of writers who formed the League of Left-Wing Writers in 1930, when the road was called Darroch Road.

The league was founded at the then China Art University, which is now a museum to commemorate the founding writers, including Lu Xun (1881-1936) and Ding Ling (1904-86). If interested in visiting, please avoid Mondays and visit from 9am-11.30am or 13pm-16.30pm, admission will be closed 30 minutes before closing time.

The other group was comprised of Kuomintang heavyweights who opposed the ideology of the left-wing writers.

Banker and politician Dr H.H. Kung (1881-1967) resided in a Spanish-Islamic-style mansion, which is still inhabited to this day. The facade of the mansion features Arab-style windows with embossments that are rarely seen in the city. But it's hard to take a peek inside to see the luxurious decor since it is a private residence.

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Lu Feiran / SHINE

The Spanish-Islamic-style mansion once belonged to banker and politician Dr H.H. Kung.

Next to the mansion is the former home of Kuomintang general Bai Chongxi (1893-1966), which is now a hospital located in 210 Duolun Rd. Bai's mansion is typical neo-classical architecture, with Corinthian columns and all.

Another unique building on the road is commonly known as Hongde Temple, but its official name is Fitch Memorial Church. This is one of the very few churches that use the classical Chinese style of architecture. Completed in October 1928, the church is a throwback to the concept of "localizing" Christianity in China, which failed in the end anyway.

Under the cornices and above the red pillars are a bright red cross and a Bible excerpt that reads "God so loved the world." The whole view creates a shocking visual impact at first glance but brings out a sense of harmony. The church still conducts religious services. Its interior is plain, just like any community chapel.

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Lu Feiran

Hongde Temple is a Christian church with Chinese architecture.

Duolun Road is full of the elegant cultural atmosphere. The concentration of so many relics of famous people in a small street of more than 500 metres is very rare and reveals the charm of Shanghai.

However, the area does attract people trying to milk business value from its rich history. Most of the shops on the streets are given over to antique collectors and sellers.

After touring around Duolun Road, visitors might enjoy a walk along Tian'ai Road, a small street about five minutes away. The street is nicknamed "the sacred land of love," mostly because Tian'ai literally means "sweet love."

How that legend started is unknown. It's a belief that young lovers walking down the street hand in hand can keep their love fresh for life.

The walls of the street are decorated with love poems, but the more interesting element here is the messages left by random people, either scribbled or carved on the bricks.

People come from all over the city to express their hopes and feelings, such as finding true love, confessing to unrequited adoration, mending a broken relationship or cursing ex-lovers.

Walking along the street, reading the messages conjures up all sorts of stories, both sweet and bitter.

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3

The museum in Xuhui District is also called the Tou-Se-We Museum, reflecting how Tushanwan is pronounced in Shanghai dialect.

In 1864, a French church founded an orphanage in the Tushanwan area, and along with it an art school was created. For the next century, many of the art masters in Shanghai, such as Liu Haisu (1896-1994) and Xu Beihong (1895-1953), worked as instructors there. Under their tutelage, many of the children who grew up in the orphanage became Chinese pioneers in varied art forms, such as Western-style sculpture and painting, and making stained glasses. Tushan was praised as the "cradle of Western-style arts in China."

The museum was founded to commemorate that period of history. One of the most precious pieces in the museum is a memorial gate of the orphanage that was built in 1912. Its wood carvings were so exquisite that the gate was exhibited at World Expos in 1915, 1933 and 1939.

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
IC

A memorial gate built in 1912

However, the gate didn't return to China until 2009. By the time it arrived home, it had fallen into disrepair that took 50 experts seven months to restore. The revived masterpiece now sits in the grand hall of the museum.

Other relics include articles from the orphanage, including the remains of Tushanwan artworks that have been displayed around the world.

Address: 55-1 Puhuitang Rd

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3

Although Shuichan Road Station is nearly 3 kilometers from the park, it's still the closest hopping-off point to the site near Wusongkou Wharf in Baoshan District. If one doesn't mind a short hike or cab ride, going to the park by Metro Line 3 is a good choice.

The park is the first national wetland park in Shanghai's inland areas with breathtaking views all year round.

Paotaiwan means "the fort bay." It used to be a critical coastal defence fortess built by Qing government. In 1842, when a British fleet attacked the wharf, General Chen Huacheng (1776-1842) led an army to repel the invaders. Though the cannons at the fort managed to sink several ships, the defenders still lost the battle and Chen lost his life.

The fort now still keeps a cannon used in the battle. The name of the cannon jiang jun means "the general who defeated barbarian foreigners," which seems now to be no more than wishful thinking.

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
IC

An ancient cannon in the wetland forest park

The park is not only a good place for people to look back to the past but also a site to enjoy fresh air, a coastal wetland, and trees and greenery. Pack a tent, a kite and a picnic basket, and a trip to the park can offer a relaxing, bonding-with-nature weekend.

Address: 206 Tanghou Rd

Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3
Off the tourist trail, neglected treasures along Line 3

The nearly 100-year-old park was originally the family graveyard of a textile magnate named Cao Zhonghuang. Nowadays, it is known as one of the best places in Shanghai to enjoy flowers – peonies in the spring, osmanthus in the autumn and plum blossoms in late winter.

It is, however, a pity that most of the plants here were transplanted after the original vegetation was destroyed during the war in the 1940s. Still, eight-century-old peony bushes survive to this day.

When the park was finished in 1935, Cao introduced peony bushes from Anhui Province, all grown during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Now, together with other hundreds of other peonies, they embody a fragrant sea of colour every spring.

The park is a favourite of senior citizens and children when the weather is fine. Rockeries, ponds and waterside pavilions create a tranquil Chinese-style garden right in the midst of a very busy residential area in Xuhui District.

Unfortunately, after the peony flowering period, Caoxi Park will usher in the overall closure of the park transformation, and it will take about one year to meet with public tourists.

Address: 203 Caoxi Rd

Hongde Temple
Caoxi Park
Xuhui
Xintiandi