Tan Weiyun
Exhibition

Hermès presents 'Les jeux de l'ombre' jewellery collection in Shanghai

2023-04-28 to 2023-04-30
Hermès Maison in Shanghai
217 Huaihai Road M. 淮海中路217号
2023-04-28 to 2023-04-30
Hermès Maison in Shanghai
217 Huaihai Road M. 淮海中路217号
Hermès presents 'Les jeux de l'ombre' jewellery collection in Shanghai
© Elizaveta Porodina

Necklace of "Chaines d'ombre"

Hermès presents its seventh high jewellery collection "Les jeux de l'ombre" (Shadow Games), interpreting the movement of shadow, its relationship with light, and the contrasts that connect them.

A total of 39 pieces are showcased to the public at Hermès Maison in Shanghai on April 28-30.

Designed by Pierre Hardy, creative director of the house's jewellery since 2001, the new collection is a polished poem for moving shadows and how they interact with light.

Shadow plays a key role. The intangible, untouchable shadows are given solid forms. The gemstones are plunged into the soft contours of a black shadow that extend beyond their edges.

The "Ombres Mobiles" pieces present shadows made in black satin-finish titanium and brown diamonds. The rose-gold necklace in this set contains a pear-cut, 3-carat diamond, along with brown diamonds, pink and green tourmalines, yellow chrysoberyls, and green beryl, while the matching ring features three diamonds, 3.5 carats in all.

On the "Lueurs du jour" rings, earrings and necklace, the shadows are crafted with black jade, and worked by hand to give it a satin finish. The rose-gold ring in this set is adorned with an oval-cut imperial topaz and baguette-cut diamonds, while the necklace and mono earring boast similar diamonds, brown diamonds and moonstones.

Hermès presents 'Les jeux de l'ombre' jewellery collection in Shanghai
© Elizaveta Porodina

Necklace of "Lueurs du jour"

"The shadow expands the shape of the jewel. It increases its surface area, fleshing it out. You could say that the shadow extends the very regulated world of jewellery; it offers a reverse perspective," said Hardy. "Any object is beautiful when placed against a dark background. The contrast effect heightens its power."

On the Cha?nes d'ombre necklace, the juxtaposition of flat-cut white diamonds is shadowed by dégradés of black spinels and blue sapphires. A unique approach to pavé setting brings the form to life while respecting the design. Gracefully flexing across the skin, this necklace required almost 2,000 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, including 700 hours of gem-setting.

This collection also presents another surprise: the rings and earrings in the "Lumières brutes" series made from rough, uncut gemstones. It's a radiant ode to shades of color, celebrating how light filters through the minerals and produces variations of a single shade that take us back to their original splendor.

The ring in rose gold is set with one rough yellow 2.1g diamond with a shadow in diamonds, yellow diamonds, and brown diamonds. The earrings contain two rough spessartite garnets (4.23g and 3.36g) with a shadow in spessartite garnets and rhodolites, diamonds, orange-yellow diamonds, and brown diamonds.

Hermès presents 'Les jeux de l'ombre' jewellery collection in Shanghai
© Elizaveta Porodina

Ring and bracelet of "Ombres mobiles"

Exhibition info:

Date: April 28-30

Venue: Hermès Maison in Shanghai

Address: 217 Huaihai Road M.

淮海中路217号