[Fashion Files] Miss Dior, From War to Florals, the Exhibition

Fashion Files is a semi-regular column, where we explore the depths of design, fashion, and creativity within one of Asia's fastest growing culture capitals. Art exhibitions, run-ways shows, interviews with models and creators, we peel back the curtain, on this ever-growing segment of Shanghai.

As a perfume maniac and a fashion student, when these two worlds collide, I will need to know all about it.

Right now in Shanghai, there's a one-of-a-kind exhibition titled "Miss Dior, Stories of a Miss." One of my strengths lies in delving into the archives of fashion history and weaving that knowledge together with my firsthand experience of the exhibit – analyzing it all through a sharp, critical lens.

When you hear "Miss Dior," what's the first vibe? A dreamy swirl of a perfume with soft florals? Or perhaps its the thought of Natalie Portman gliding through Paris in that iconic ad? Cute, but the real story hits way harder. The name Miss Dior was born in the chaos of World War II – out of darkness, rebellion and hope. Before it was a perfume, it was an actual woman. A woman whose raw courage and unshakable willpower set the tone for what would become one of the most legendary fragrances of the 20th century.

A sensory experience, with visual, audio and aromatic stimuli to help you dive deep into the romance and femininity of the modern Miss Dior. But under all the pink lights, floral dresses and pretty bows, hides a complicated story of the muse behind the iconic perfume, Catherine Dior.

Catherine Dior became an icon of her time. Christian Dior's youngest sister had a profound influence not only on the couturier himself, but her impact still felt in the brand's DNA to this day. During her younger, pre-war days, Catherine was an avid gardener. Spending hours tending their family's cottage's greenery, supporting her family by selling beans and peas, she would remain green-fingered her whole life. (Vogue, 2024) However, the quiet cottage-core lifestyle was not to last. Catherine was about to become one of the main figures de la résistance against the German nazis occupation.

During World War II, Catherine and Christian moved from Paris back to the south of France. There Catherine met a man who would alter her life forever, Hervé des Charbonneries, a passionate member of the French resistance. Despite him not being single and much older than her, she was smitten. Not long after, she joined the resistance herself.

For years, the Nazis tried to force Paris to its knees. The Resistance refused to break – and Catherine Dior was at its heart. In 1944, she was caught, tortured and interrogated by the Gestapo. Her unshakable will carried her through brutal questioning and the hell of multiple concentration camps. She never betrayed a single comrade. Miss Dior wasn't just Christian Dior's little sister or his muse – she was the definition of resilience, a living symbol of defiance in one of history's darkest hours.

When Christian Dior unveiled his New Look – a radical silhouette that rejected post-war austerity and Coco Chanel's boyish, boxy suits – he also introduced a new fragrance: Miss Dior. What we now call Miss Dior Original was daring for its time: crisp green chypre, patchouli and bold florals. More than just a perfume, it was a tribute to Catherine Dior's courage, and to the resilience of women in a world rebuilding itself.

But like every successful product, Miss Dior had to evolve. Fast forward to the 21st century, and the scent has shifted – less bold, more romantic; a soft, powdery floral designed to capture youth and dreaminess. The question is: In trading sharp edges for soft petals, has the message endured?

As perfumery and fashion obsessive, I have a lot of appreciation for scents that hold a lot of history. And it can be unfortunate to learn that some perfumes have to adapt to a wider audience, trading their more unique ingredients to simpler ones. However, that's why exhibitions like this one are so important. Many may not realize, that your favorite fragrance may have a robust history, and may have even undergone some transformation.

So What About the Exhibition? Is It Worth It?

Hats off. The organization was flawless. The staff? Not only friendly but – let's be honest – total eye candy. The exhibition space itself felt distinctly Dior: sleek, modern and dripping with the house's signature aesthetic. Much of the atmosphere drew from the vision of former creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, whose brand of modern feminism echoed through the couture on display.

But the real star? The storytelling. The Miss Dior exhibition nails it. Depending on which path you take, you're either greeted by the dreamy aesthetics of the modern fragrance or plunged straight into the roots – Catherine Dior's biography, where it all began.

Now, onto my favorites. Vintage parfum bottles? I'll be thinking about them at 3am – no joke. The craftsmanship, the elegance, the intention behind every detail… it's a kind of beauty that feels impossible in today's profit-obsessed world.

The exhibition also showcased a handful of haute couture looks, many tied to Natalie Portman's modern Miss Dior persona, alongside a row of breathtaking vintage prêt-à-porter designs from Christian Dior himself. But the moment that stole my heart? The notes room. Rows of bright pink pots, each holding a single fragrance note from Miss Dior. I lingered at jasmine – my forever favorite, bold yet graceful.

And just when you think it's over, there's a chic little store where you can scoop up Miss Dior products, plus an elegant café serving desserts as pretty as the couture and tea sets that feel straight out of a dream.

You leave this exhibition realizing that a perfume bottle is never just a bottle. It carries history, identity and the spirit of its time. Perfume reflects more than scent – it mirrors what people crave, how they want to be seen, the atmosphere they want around them. Miss Dior isn't just fragrance in glass; it's a time capsule. A testament to Catherine Dior's unbreakable spirit, still inspiring decades later.

So whether you're into perfume, fashion or simply human history, this exhibition is a nice addition to a weekend stroll along the South Bund. Admission is free, which feels like a gift. And if you want to extend the experience, there's an elegant café on-site – reservations recommended, but walk-ins are welcome.