Meatball Cones, Venetian Vibes, and a Fresh Take on Italian Soul Food at Ragu il Bacaro

Just across from the URBN Hotel on Jiaozhou Road, Ragu Spuntino offers a cozy spot to savor casual Italian fare – unpretentious, a bit street-style, yet deeply soulful. Though only open for one and a half years, this small eatery has already attracted a loyal local following, thanks to its warm, nourishing dishes made with quality ingredients and a genuine love for Italian culture.

Inspired by the success of Ragu Spuntino, chef-owner Gian Filippo Murari recently launched a second venue, Ragu il Bacaro, by the Suzhou Creek. The location offers an elevated dining experience while remaining true to the authentic spirit of Italian cuisine. It goes beyond the ordinary to provide a fresh perspective, drawing inspiration from the chef's hometown of Verona and various other Italian regions.

The name "Bàcaro" comes from the Venetian dialect, referring to the intimate riverside taverns typical of Venice – a fitting concept for the ambiance along Suzhou Creek. Here, Filippo showcases his culinary creativity and imagination, blending tradition with innovation.

The Roots: A Dream of Sharing Italian Food and Culture

Ragu Spuntino was inspired by Filippo's vision to establish a casual Italian street food concept – an authentic space where people can enjoy handmade Italian flavors and celebrate Italian culture with warmth and positivity.

"The dream of sharing Italian food and culture – together with my craft in pizza-making – motivated me to create my own stage here in Shanghai, a place to express my inspirations and creativity," he says.

"The idea was never to open a classic restaurant," Filippo explains. "Our street-food concept stood out because it was unique. Street food is universal; it carries history, identity, and everyday life. It dates back over 2,000 years to the Roman Empire, when street food was hugely popular – and among the favorites were flat breads topped with various ingredients, the early ancestors of today's burgers.

"I wanted to return to the roots – the original spirit of dining, which is more casual and lively than the typical restaurant. It's not just about sandwiches or snacks. For me, street food is a way of eating – grab it in a box and enjoy it on the go."

Signature Dishes: Unique Creations and Timeless Classics

The star of Ragu Spuntino's menu is the Italian meatball cone – Filippo's original invention combining handmade Italian meatballs in a savory cone topped with cheese. Since opening in March 2024, nearly 20,000 cones have been sold.

"You won't find this anywhere else, not even in Italy," Filippo says. "I designed it for my wife, a true cone lover, so she could enjoy meatballs any day of the month."

Other standout items include the Fagottino (Italian lucky bag) and L'Osso with ham (a bone-shaped single-portion pizza), both of which Filippo introduced over 20 years ago at his Verona restaurant.

"Our goal as chefs is to honor the ingredients," Filippo says. "Mozzarella and burrata are famous, but I'm no longer a fan of limiting Italian food to just these. We have so much more to offer. It's time to move forward – that's the spirit of Ragu."

Filippo's Journey: From Verona to Shanghai

Filippo's path to China was far from accidental. His fascination with the country began in 1984, when he was 14.

"Back then, information about China was scarce. My passion grew from curiosity about a country few knew. I even started eating with chopsticks at home and practicing martial arts like Yong Chun, which is rich in history and stories. I was keen to learn everything about Chinese culture."

He began working in kitchens while studying political science at the University of Bologna, but ultimately chose food and beverage over politics.

"I put the papers away and went back to the kitchen," he says with a laugh.

A decade ago, Filippo moved to Shanghai, where he quickly felt at home. After stints as an executive chef at a hotel and an Italian restaurant, he opened Ragu with his Chinese wife.

Ragu il Bacaro: A New Chapter with More Flavors

Ragu il Bacaro marks a new stage in Filippo's culinary journey, featuring creative new dishes inspired by his Italian roots.

One highlight is Magnum di Baccala, inspired by the Veneto specialty Baccalà Mantecato – a creamy mousse made from salted cod. Traditionally served on crostini or polenta, Filippo reimagines it as a magnum-style gelato – crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside. "I wanted to offer a new way to enjoy baccala," he explains.

Another creation, Cappuccino di Mare, is a contemporary take on seafood soup. Under a delicate "cappuccino" foam hides a mix of seafood, supported by a rich fish stock base. The dish balances complex textures with subtle flavors.

With a deep-rooted passion for authentic Italian cuisine and an innovative spirit that embraces both tradition and modernity, Filippo continues to redefine what Italian dining can be in Shanghai.

Whether through the casual charm of Ragu Spuntino or the elevated creativity of Ragu il Bacaro, his culinary journey invites guests to savor not just food but a heartfelt story of culture, connection, and shared joy.