Chanel's le19M Brings French Craftsmanship to Shanghai
From intricate haute couture embroidery to contemporary Chinese craftsmanship, Chanel's la Galerie du 19M brings the hidden artistry of fashion into the spotlight at the Museum of Art Pudong.
When we think of an exquisite garment, a picture of a finished product from a runway comes to mind. But behind the pleasing shapes and beautiful colors, there are hours of intricate handwork and sometimes centuries of tradition. This fall, Shanghai gives us an opportunity to look behind the curtain into the craftsmanship of one of the most revered fashion brands, Chanel. But it is not just a display for a single fashion house. An ongoing conversation between Western and Eastern craft legacy is furthered by the works of contemporary Chinese artists that draw a bridge between ancient legacy and modern innovation, accompanied by the meticulous work of the French craftsmen.
Running from September 25 to November 15 at the Museum of Art Pudong, this rare exhibition offers a unique perspective on human creativity and skills. For fashion enthusiasts, textile lovers, and anyone curious about the relationship between heritage and innovation, it is an invitation to look at some of the highest levels of craftsmanship, something that becomes increasingly valuable in our modern AI-maxxing age.
Founded by Chanel in 2021, le19M brings together specialist ateliers whose expertise is essential to the luxury fashion industry. Its network includes craftspeople working in embroidery, pleating, featherwork, millinery, jewellery and other highly specialised disciplines. In Les Maisons, visitors can discover the remarkable precision and imagination involved in transforming raw materials into intricate decorative details. From embroidery to shoe and hat making, visitors can take a closer look at what goes into creating something beautiful. And remember, even though some of the feathers and sequins look very touchable, countless staff members are closely monitoring you with a sign that says "Do Not Touch", so do not be tempted.
The next section will be highly enjoyed by fine arts lovers. A Sense of Touch, one of its central sections, brings the expertise of le19M's ateliers into conversation with Chinese and French artists, designers and craftspeople.
Curated with contributions from figures including Gong Yan, Lin Tianmiao, Zhang Lei and Christelle Kocher, the section explores craftsmanship through materials and practices such as textiles, ceramics, lacquer, woodcarving and bamboo weaving.
Rather than treating traditional techniques as relics of the past, the exhibition considers how they can be reinterpreted through contemporary creative practice. Different materials and cultural traditions become starting points for experimentation, revealing unexpected connections between craft, art and design. This is very fitting for a city like Shanghai, where constant innovation is met by honoring the centuries-old legacy.
My personal favorite section was Lesage: 100 Years of Fashion and Decoration. An appreciation of Maison Lesage, the celebrated Parisian embroidery house established in 1924.
Known for its contribution to haute couture, Lesage has helped shape the visual language of Chanel through its intricate embroidery and distinctive textile creations. Its work demonstrates how embellishment can become an integral part of a garment's identity rather than a finishing touch. Moreover, 19M features a large display of archival and contemporary Chanel runway pieces. From Karl Lagerfeld to current Matthieu Blazy, the consistency and quality of the Chanel craft cannot be appreciated enough.
If you didn't know, Chanel acquired Lesage through Paraffection in 2002; the historic atelier is celebrated for its intricate embroidery and innovative tweed creations. What is Paraffecrtion you might ask? It is a part of the Chanel label that invests and manages many specialized French craft workshops, in order to preserve and celebrate human creativity and history. Which is an incredible initiative; in our contemporary age of AI, we cannot afford to lose any more uniquely human skills.
So, should you visit? The short answer is yes. Even if you're not a fashion enthusiast, anyone who can appreciate beauty will enjoy this exhibition. Plus, there are 3 workshops available; however, you must register for them in advance. Also, even though the exhibition itself is free, you need to buy a museum ticket in order to enter, which costs 100 yuan for adults. The museum ticket covers all the ongoing exhibitions, so if you visit recently, you can also enjoy "Giorgio Morandi: Solo" which ends on October 28; Carolina Caycedo: Salute of the Whales "; and "Once Upon a Time," an art program collaborated between MAP and TATE.
You can check all the relevant information through MAP's WeChat mini program.
