Evolution hits the runway

Chinese fashion designers bring contemporary elements with traditional aspects to young consumers hungry for modernity.

​Designers draw inspiration from classical Chinese arts, such as calligraphy, paintings and embroidery. GAO ERQIANG/CHINA DAILY

On the runway at Shanghai's Donghua University, a jacket with an outward-flaring structure commands attention. While its structure echoes the traditional dress of Hui'an women from China's southeastern coast, its contemporary materials and style bridge the centuries-long evolution of fashion.

This piece is among dozens of designs featured at the third series of the Contemporary Chinese Style Fashion Design Exhibition, where eight Chinese fashion designers have gathered to showcase their vision of Chinese aesthetics in modern fashion.

"We are infusing traditional culture with vitality, evolution, and contemporary rhythm in our designs," says Chen Yu, founder of his namesake fashion brand and designer of the Hui'an-inspired jacket. "The goal isn't to simply preserve tradition in a museum but to make it relevant to modern life."

The exhibition marks a departure from Western interpretations of East Asian artistic traditions that gained popularity in the 17th and 18th centuries in Europe.

"Contemporary Chinese fashion design is deeply rooted in the modern Chinese values of creation and lifestyle," explains exhibition curator Bian Xiangyang, a professor at Donghua University. "What we're witnessing is a sophisticated fusion where historical elements seamlessly blend with contemporary aesthetics."

Comparing the current exhibition to its predecessors in 2015 and 2019, Bian notes a huge transformation. "The evolution has been remarkable," he reflects. "Initially, designers simply applied Chinese elements like traditional embroidery onto Western silhouettes. By 2019, we observed a revival of hanfu (traditional Chinese attire) and the evolution of qipao. Today, we're seeing a more sophisticated integration that encompasses the material, organizational, psychological, and behavioral aspects of Chinese culture."

The exhibition features an extensive program, including static displays, theoretical discussions, and runway presentations. Each designer presents six to eight creations and participates in discussions on the fashion discipline system with Chinese characteristics.

Fresh from a Paris fashion event, Chen shares an observation about global reception: "Before leaving for Paris, I was concerned about cultural barriers that could potentially limit the understanding of our work. To my surprise, I found international audiences quite receptive to Chinese cultural elements. The global fashion dialogue has become remarkably inclusive.

"Traditional Chinese culture carries profound historical significance; this is its core value and its irreplaceable essence," Chen continues. "Like any industry, fashion needs time to evolve. With thousands of years of cultural heritage as a foundation, we need to practice patience and focus on executing our present work with excellence."

This year's exhibition emphasizes practical, wearable fashion over ceremonial attire, featuring pieces that subtly reference aspects of Chinese heritage. Designer Ma Guai, for example, incorporates elements of Tibetan culture into her collections, while others draw inspiration from classical Chinese arts, such as calligraphy, embroidery, and traditional color theory.

"Contemporary Chinese fashion has entered an unprecedented phase where culture, industry, commerce, and global communication meaningfully converge," says Liu Shuhui, vice-president of Donghua University. "As a leading institution in China's textile and apparel industry, Donghua University remains committed to serving national strategies, industry development, and local construction."

Chen Dapeng, vice-president of the China National Textile and Apparel Council and president of the China National Garment Association, provides industry perspective: "While China has built one of the world's largest apparel industries and leads in technological innovation, we still face gaps in cultural creativity.

"However, with rising confidence among consumers, particularly young people, we're seeing unprecedented opportunities for culture-driven industry growth," he adds.

The exhibition coincides with a significant transformation in China's fashion landscape. According to the China Fashion Consumption Development Report released in June, the market is projected to reach 2 to 3 trillion yuan ($282.8-424.2 billion) by 2025.

The report also highlights the evolution of Chinese fashion consumption by simply incorporating traditional cultural elements to achieve organic coexistence between traditional elements and modern life, progressing toward building a brand ecosystem founded on cultural confidence.

Looking forward, Bian envisions a promising future for Chinese fashion design. "Within the next five to 10 years, we anticipate Chinese style will gain prominent global recognition," he says. "Through systematic design language, refined techniques, and distinct characteristics that bridge Chinese culture with contemporary aesthetics, our designs will articulate both Chinese identity and modern relevance."

The exhibition, organized by Donghua University, the China National Garment Association, the China Fashion Association, and the Shanghai Promotion Center for City of Fashion, runs through Jan 10, 2026, at the Shanghai Museum of Textile and Costume.