[Chef's Table] Logan Brouse of Tacolicious

Chef's Table isn't your average Q&A. We swapped the notebook-and-recorder routine for something considerably more enjoyable: dinner. The conversation you're about to read happened over a real meal, and those food photos between the questions? That's what we actually ate, together, at the same table. No scripts. No fluff. Just the food, the drink, and whatever spills out when a chef relaxes. (Occasionally more than just the wine.) Got a chef we should be eating with? Name drop in the comments!

An implicit rule in the art of taco making is that texture – and lots of it – is always good. A crunch of a masa shell, a dribble of spicy salsa, a squirt of a popping ripe tomato, a chomp of fresh slaw, a chewy pull of a flour tortilla or a hot, stringy ooze of melted mozzarella – can transform a humdrum taco into something infinitely more delicious.

With that in mind, it's not earth-shattering news that Tacolicious makes the epitome of a damn great taco – living up to the restaurant's cheeky tagline, 'Making Tacos Great Again.' We sat down with owner Logan Brouse to learn about how Tacolicious came to be recognized as Shanghai's most bustling taco joint and what it took to get there, tracing his route from early days as a bartender to becoming a well-respected restaurateur.

What first brought you to Shanghai?

On May 15, 2010, I made the leap from San Francisco to Shanghai, a date I remember vividly because it coincided with Bay to Breakers – a legendary race and party that encapsulates the spirit of San Francisco. I was invited by George Chen, the owner of Roosevelt Steakhouse, to consult on a new venture called The Strip at the Ascot Hotel, now in the space we all know as Highline.

Before this, I had spent eight years managing Shanghai 1930 in San Francisco, a high-end Chinese restaurant. The space had a full live jazz band and a private (members only) cigar lounge, called Guanxi Lounge, that catered to high profile guests like Gavin Newsom and Kamala Harris.

My role as the American consultant at The Strip was a rare opportunity since there were very few Western bartenders in Shanghai at the time. What was supposed to be a one-month stay turned into an unexpected 16-year adventure.

How did you get started in F&B in Shanghai?

My journey in the food and beverage industry began in 2002 when I took my first bartending job at The Palace in Santa Fe, New Mexico, at just 22 years old. Since then, I've never strayed from this path; it has always been my calling.

When did you know you wanted to open a bar or restaurant?

Every bartender dreams of opening their own bar eventually, but the reality of ownership often proves more challenging than expected. After my time at The Strip, I joined M1NT in 2012, one of the top nightclubs globally, known for its electrifying nightlife. The experience was exhilarating, filled with unforgettable nights.

From there, I was approached by the Muse Group and became the lounge manager for Muse on the Bund from 2013-2014. It was a massive venue with a restaurant, lounge, KTV rooms, and nightclub.

In late 2014, a friend, Adrian Wall (of Joe's Pizza), who was an investor at The Strip, called me (probably after a few too many drinks), and suggested we open a bar named Logan's Punch. I agreed (likely under the same influence), and we found a spot at Zhongyuan Plaza, collaborating with Neri&Hu for the design.

We launched Logan's Punch on July 4, 2014, offering a "dive bar for rich people" vibe, blending gritty energy with high-end clientele. Think It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia, but for high rollers. The bar won the title of Best Designed Bar in the World in 2014.

When and why did Logan's Punch eventually close?

The original Logan's Punch closed at the end of 2018 due to the government taking over the entire complex, which is now home to the giant Louis Vuitton store in Zhongyang Plaza. We opened a second location from 2019 to 2022, but it succumbed to the challenges of those years.

How did you transition from Logan's Punch to Tacolicious?

After creating a highly successful food program at Logan's Punch, I decided to explore opening a restaurant to take that popular food program to another level. Being from New Mexico, I envisioned something quirky that Shanghai was missing, which birthed the tagline "making tacos great again." One of the perks of this venture was the earlier hours; I appreciated being able to wrap up by midnight instead of the usual 4 AM life of a bartender manager.

What was your vision for Tacolicious, and how has it evolved?

Opening a taco spot had always been an idea in the back of my mind. Through discussions with Chef Brad Turley, I took over the previous Goga location, and within a week, we were ready to launch. This was in the summer of 2018. The first Tacolicious was a lively spot on Yueyang Lu, known for its hip-hop atmosphere and rooftop, focusing solely on with tacos, drinks, and fun vibes.

When we opened a second location in Jing'an in March 2020, we noticed a shift in demographic towards families, prompting us to tone down the music and expand the menu beyond just tacos. This evolution led to the new identity: "More than just amazing tacos," integrating burritos, quesadillas, and other offerings.

What's your favorite dish on the Tacolicious menu?

With eight years in operation, we constantly rotate specials, especially on Taco Tuesdays, where we rarely repeat dishes. Currently, I'm leaning towards lighter options, like our grilled shrimp salad. I love. grilled shrimp, and the soft-boiled eggs, greens, and garlic-soy dressing keep it light and healthy. I also love our chicken pozole soup, something from my childhood back in New Mexico, but, reimagined with a red broth and a bit of sour cream.

And what's your favorite taco on the menu and why?

The Crispy Cauliflower taco is a standout for me – deep-fried cauliflower with garlic mayo, salsa, and cheese. It's a bold statement that vegetarian options can still be indulgent. Our menu caters to various dietary preferences as everything is made in-house, allowing for modifications to accommodate vegans, vegetarians, and those with gluten sensitivities.

What separates Tacolicious from other taco spots?

We're really focused on deliciousness over strict authenticity. Living in China, some of the traditional ingredients, like masa, ancho chilis, fresh jalapeños, that kind of thing, can be really hard to source. So we just focus on flavor and creativity instead, blending Chinese and international influences while still keeping that taco essence. We even work with a local avocado farmer because honestly we go through avocados faster than any other restaurant in town. We're not Tex-Mex, we're not traditional Mexican. We're just Tacolicious, and that means fun, lively, and a little bit our own thing.

What's the wackiest order you've received?

One memorable order at The Strip involved a guest requesting a 1964 Latour mixed with Coca-Cola. Initially, I was taken aback, but a fellow manager reminded me that hospitality is about the guest's happiness, not my ego. This transformed my perspective on service.

At Tacolicious, we have a regular (who just so happens to be highly lactose intolerant) who always orders Queso Fundido despite knowing the consequences. Needless to say, we keep his prescription medicine handy for him in the fridge year-round!

How has Shanghai's F&B scene evolved over your tenure here?

When I first got to Shanghai in 2010, the scene was really dominated by nightclubs and flashy cocktails. I started introducing fresh juices and classic techniques, and around 2011 a new generation of bartenders started emerging alongside some real industry icons like Eddie Yang, Yao Lu, and Cross Yu. Competitions like Diageo World Class helped shape what we ended up calling "Shanghai Style," which was this blend of Japanese precision, American energy, and local creativity. That's really what elevated the cocktail scene here.

On the food side, since opening Tacolicious I've watched so many restaurants come and go. Longevity is genuinely rare in this city. But our loyal customers keep us going, especially Chinese students who studied abroad, came back, and want to share those Western food experiences with their family and friends. That really picked up post-COVID. And then you've got these bigger cultural moments too, like the movie Coco, or LeBron James trying to copyright "Taco Tuesday," things like that just get people curious about Mexican food and make what we're doing feel more relevant.

When you're not at Tacolicious, where will we find you eating and drinking?

For Chinese food I'm really into Dongbei, you know, that hearty northeastern style with big shareable dishes. And Haidilao is always a go-to for hotpot. On the Western side I love Zup, Homeslice, Parlay, Yak and Yeti, Smoking Hog, so many good spots. We're really spoiled for choice in Shanghai. And for bars I tend to gravitate toward the more casual places, like The Rooster, Juanitos, Lucky Mart, and Specters, where Rae Lee, one of my favorite bartenders, just does incredible work.

If you weren't in F&B, what would you be?

I would love to be a Travel Channel TV host, exploring the culinary landscapes across the globe.

What advice would you give to your younger self or new F&B entrepreneurs?

Understanding finances is crucial. Even with a great concept and team, a lack of knowledge about costs, margins, and cash flow can lead to failure. F&B is a high-investment, low-margin business; knowing the numbers is essential.

We had a partner who failed to pay our suppliers and accountant, pocketing the funds instead. Trusting him, I didn't monitor his responsibilities closely. When he unexpectedly left the country, we faced a shortfall of millions in RMB. We had to set up payment plans to settle our debts and restore our supplier relationships. In the end, we came out ok, but this isn't always the case sadly for small businesses.

What's next for you?

I'm currently a brand ambassador for Hai Seas Distillery, Shanghai's first distillery producing gin, vodka, rum, and whiskey, and we're on a path of expansion. The future holds exciting opportunities for new locations and markets, while continuing to grow the brand and stay connected to the broader industry. As long as people keep showing up, we know we're doing something right.