[Weekend Escape] Yellow Mountain & Its Surrounding Villages

Yellow Mountain: The Weekend Escape China's Been Hiding From You

If you've ever seen a traditional Chinese ink painting with jagged mountains disappearing into the clouds, twisted pine trees clinging to cliffs, and tiny villages beside reflective lakes, you've seen a depiction of Huangshan (literally, in Chinese: huang means yellow, shan means mountain). In fact, hundreds of millions of people (maybe billions) have seen the Yellow Mountain without even realizing it. That's because a towering painting of the famous mountain hangs in the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, acting as the backdrop when visiting foreign dignitaries shake hands with the Chinese leader.

So it's quite a famous place among natives, not so much among foreigners. But it should be. This Weekend Escapes guide is here to help you navigate the city: what to do, the best places to go, what to eat, and where to stay. Let's get started.

Huangshan, the Yellow Mountain

The mountain itself is, of course, the focal point. It's majestic, the most beautiful of Chinese mountains, according to many. But that's not all the city is famous for. Yes, the city is named after the mountain, but it's so much more than that, and its history is rich.

Ever seen Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon? Well, if so, you've seen a small slice of Yellow Mountain too. Those beautiful flying kung fu scenes over the quaint villages on water? Shot right here. But let's start with the mountain, because that's what usually comes to mind when people mention Yellow Mountain.

Getting here is easy: from Shanghai, it's 2.5 hours on the train into Yellow Mountain North Station, then a 45-minute shuttle bus to the base. Staying here is also easy. There are nice hotels for cheap (see below), or you can even stay on the mountain.

Tickets to access Yellow Mountain are admittedly a little steep, around US$40 to US$50 depending on how many cable cars you use (the entrance fee is US$26 of that), because trust me, you're going to need to ride at least a few to navigate the sprawling expanse of jagged peaks. But this cash goes toward the maintenance and upkeep of the area (which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, by the way), so that's a big plus.

The mountain itself

So, you've arrived. There are many different routes to the top, some more difficult than others, but you can choose this yourself. There's no right or wrong way to do it. Just take it easy, bring lots of sunscreen, and pack water and snacks, since food is a little scarce.

If you're more adventurous and able-bodied, there's a peak that's reasonably dangerous to climb, so they only open it to the first 3,000 sign-ups per day. It's called Tiandu Peak. But whichever route you take, you're going to be met with jagged granite cliffs collapsing 6,000 feet into seas of fog, twisting pine trees "showing you the way," and endless mountain layers stretching into the far distance. Cinematic.

Seasonally, the mountain is the kind of place you want to keep going back to, and I'll explain why. Spring is a great time to visit; autumn too. The sun is out, but there's enough of a constant, pleasant breeze to make the hike enjoyable. Visiting during winter completely changes the atmosphere, though. It's common for the mountain to see lots of snowfall, and it transforms into something that feels almost otherworldly.

The villages

The Yellow Mountain isn't the only UNESCO heritage site in the area. The surroundings are of equal cultural and historical significance. That's because southern Anhui (the province in which Huangshan sits) is home to some of China's best-preserved ancient villages, dating back at least 800 years.

Here, visitors can get a glimpse into traditional Huizhou architecture: whitewashed walls, black tiled roofs, intricate wood carvings, and narrow stone alleyways that have remained remarkably unchanged for centuries. This is where the trip evolves into something more than just hiking.

Huizhou architecture

The area overlapping the villages was historically known as Huizhou, and it has one of the most recognizable traditional architecture styles in China. During the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368-1911), Huizhou merchants became some of the wealthiest traders in China, and would spend their wealth building elaborate family compounds and ancestral halls. Today, three major villages remain as proud examples of this period.

Village Hongcun

Hongcun is the idyllic village you see in Chinese water paintings. It's probably the most famous, and for good reason too. I first visited Hongcun back in 2022, and its authentic beauty blew me away. As is common in Jiangnan (south of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River), the village is built around a network of canals and reflective ponds, and the architecture is pretty special.

Compared to the villages of Chengkan and Xidi, Hongcun is a little busier and more touristy, but it's still number one. If you only have time to visit a single village, I'd pick Hongcun.

Village Chengkan

Chengkan has recently surged in popularity, and for good reason. It's quieter, less commercial, and over 1,000 years old. But wait until 6:45pm, and wow. Every day at this time, the village transforms: locals carrying glowing fish-shaped lanterns march through the narrow Huizhou alleyways, while fishermen on canopy boats (called wupeng boats) float through the canals and set off fireworks. It's chaos. Good chaos. These lanterns are part of Anhui's intangible cultural heritage, with the fish representing prosperity, abundance and good fortune.

Village Xidi

Xidi is the third village of southern Anhui, yet it too is a UNESCO site. Again, it's less touristy than Hongcun, beautifully preserved, and filled with grand courtyards and stone-paved lanes, but it feels more classical and historical than Chengkan. This is the quietest of the bunch.

Food

Of course, we need to mention the food. Anhui cuisine is one of the Eight Great Cuisines of China (八大菜系), alongside Sichuan, Cantonese, Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian, and Hunan, and it's typically associated with mountain ingredients, herbs, bamboo shoots, slow braising, and earthy flavors. Walking through the streets, you'll likely find hairy tofu and lots of chou gui yu (stinky mandarin fish), although the taste is much better than the name suggests.

Getting there

Getting to Huangshan from Shanghai is refreshingly painless, especially by China high-speed-rail standards. The fastest option is a direct G-train from Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station straight to Huangshan North, and depending on the service, you're looking at anywhere from 2.5 to just over 3 hours. A handful of trains also run from the more central Shanghai Railway Station, though those tend to run a bit longer, closer to 3 to 3.5 hours. Either way, book ahead on Trip.com or the 12306 app, especially around public holidays, when seats vanish fast.

Second class tickets run roughly 150 to 200 yuan, and that's the seat to get. First class isn't a meaningful upgrade in comfort, and the real draw of this route is the view, not the legroom: the train slices past Hangzhou and skirts Qiandao (One Thousand Island) Lake on the way, so grab a window seat if you can.

Here's the part that trips people up: Huangshan North Station is not near the mountain. It's about 50km from Tangkou, the town at the mountain's base, so you'll need a second leg. Sightseeing shuttle buses run from the station's tourism hub for around 20 yuan, taking 45 minutes to an hour depending on traffic and which gate you're headed to (South Gate is the one most first-timers want). If you'd rather skip navigating a Chinese-only bus terminal, arrange a private transfer through your hotel, or grab a taxi for somewhere in the 100 to 150 yuan range.

Heading to the villages instead of straight up the mountain? Most homestays in Hongcun, Xidi, or Chengkan can arrange pickup from the station too, usually for a similar price, and it's the easier move if you're not confident finding the right bus.

Where to Stay

• Staying in Yellow Mountain is easy, thanks to its breadth of options at great price points. If you want to stay on the mountain, it can be around US$175 per night, depending on when you book. Huangshan Bai Yun Hotel is beautiful and very highly rated. (https://www.trip.com/t/PWFY7bTKnU2)
• If you want to stay at the gate of the mountain, you can find lots of 4-star homestays rated 9/10 for around US$40 a night.(https://www.trip.com/t/QKSFUnVKnU2)
• If you'd prefer to stay nearer Hongcun, around an hour from the mountain, you can find lots of nearby homestays at around US$40 to US$60. (https://www.trip.com/t/cFp5F7aKnU2)
• Or if Chengkan is more your vibe, there are chain hotels as well as homestays for a similar price. (https://www.trip.com/t/vTxl79cKnU2)