Chinese designer uses traditional motifs to draw Western attention to the East

Chinese designer Zhang Dingyun, who has collaborated with global companies such as Adidas, Yeezy and Moncler will cooperate with Croc and host an exhibition titled "SCAR: city" in Paris on September 24. He speaks with Shanghai Daily about expressing Chinese stories through design.

Shanghai Daily: Could you share with us the inspiration behind the theme of the upcoming exhibition "SCAR: city" in Paris? What does "SCAR: city" mean?

Zhang: The "SCAR: City" installation and collection serves as a memoir of the struggles and competitiveness that arise from the bustling downtown culture. The centerpiece is a pool of water, symbolizing the ephemeral nature of life's opportunities, where Ding's warriors fight to reach the wishing well. The installation centers around a water piece, enticing various characters with diverse life perspectives to successfully reach the water. The ways in which they get there vary greatly, reflecting the uniqueness of each person's journey.

Shanghai Daily: How do you plan to guide international visitors to "look at the East, look at China, look at Shanghai" through this show?

Zhang: Participating in the Paris fashion calendar naturally showcases a Chinese designer's presence on the international fashion landscape. By highlighting ideas through storytelling and displaying Chinese history and heritage is the inspiration behind my clothing, I have inadvertently introduced the East to the West. The whole process is more natural than overtly intentional.

Shanghai Daily: In this show, you have integrated traditional elements such as lion dance culture, Chinese opera facial makeup, and Chinese knots. Are there any special stories behind these designs?

Zhang: "Journey to the West" and "Havoc in Heaven" are classic tales from childhood that are deeply ingrained in my memory and have shaped my thinking, linking creativity with life lessons. Hence the facial make-up and exaggerated styles could draw cues from such narratives.

Shanghai Daily: You have collaborated with several international brands. As a Chinese designer, what are your advantages in collaborating with international teams? Have you ever encountered any particular difficulties or challenges?

Zhang: Any collaboration involves finding a balance, troubleshooting, and arriving at the best solution based on the skills and interests of both parties. Drafts are tried, tested, revisited, and reworked until the best outcome is achieved. Working with different teams across different time zones and languages can pose challenges, but the result is even more rewarding as we conquer the unexpected.

Shanghai Daily: On the global stage of design, how do you think Chinese designers should balance internationalization and localization? What elements are crucial in telling Chinese stories through design?

Zhang: Referencing heritage and history are among the ways to highlight Chinese sensibility, but this should not limit your ideas or the narrative that can be translated into clothing and design. By referencing contemporary examples and drawing unlikely parallels between different genres, you can achieve a balance between localizing ideas and presenting them to a broader, international audience.