[Hai Streets] History Lives On in the Timeless Shops of Nanjing Road E.

Editor's Note

Hai Streets is our semi-regular column on Shanghai's great commercial arteries. From Nanjing East's blend of heritage storefronts and pop-culture malls to Huaihai's luxe lanes and Hongqiao's international cultural diversity hubs, we explore how Shanghai's commercial hubs drive billions in sales and shape the city's identity–where commerce, culture, and history collide in neon, nostalgia, and nonstop foot traffic.

Nanjing Road E. Business District is where Shanghai remembers its heritage.

Amid the bright signs and constant foot traffic, some businesses have stayed strong for over a century. They are known by their signs, names and stories in this ever-changing metropolis.

A sip of aged Shaoxing rice wine may evoke the echoes of Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) poets. A crisp butterfly pastry from the Park Hotel may remind you of your grandmother's kitchen. The herb-scented pharmacy, the old scissor shop, and the steam rising from a tray of sticky rice balls serve as reminders of Shanghai's rich history. These elements represent the city's heritage, still speaking in flavors, textures, and quiet pride.

Take a break and explore Nanjing Road E. with us.

Start Point: Park Hotel (国际饭店)

Built in 1934, the Park Hotel was once the tallest building in the Far East and continues to serve as an architectural symbol of old Shanghai. Beyond its Art Deco façade, it is famously recognized as the birthplace of Shanghai-style butterfly pastries (蝴蝶酥).

These pastries, introduced by European chefs and refined in Shanghai, evolved from their French and German origins into a uniquely local creation that is richer in butter, crispier in texture, and deeply comforting.

Today, no trip to Shanghai is complete without a box of these golden, flaky treats. Each piece is handmade with 256 layers, baked to shatteringly crisp perfection, and sweetened just enough to evoke nostalgia. Visitors and locals alike line up every morning at the hotel's bakery for this iconic snack, a small pastry that has become a delicious symbol of the city's cosmopolitan charm.

Address: 170 Nanjing Road W. 南京西路170号

1st Stop: Xinya Cantonese Restaurant (新雅粤菜馆)

Founded in 1926, Xinya Cantonese Restaurant is a shining example of authentic Cantonese dining in Shanghai.

Originally a tea house, it is now a high-end restaurant with top chefs, elegant decor, and excellent service. It was frequented by luminaries such as Lu Xun and Ba Jin.

The restaurant's grandeur was a reflection of founder Cai Jianqing's vision, from meticulously laid service guidelines to the hiring of multilingual staff. Its revival of the original Xinya Tea Room in 2018 pays tribute to its origins while incorporating modern tastes. Today, the ten-story restaurant offers a variety of dining experiences, including Cantonese dim sum, seafood, hotpot, and pastries – a true fusion of heritage and innovation.

Address: 719 Nanjing Rd E. 南京东路719号

2nd Stop: Shanghai Bedroom Articles Co (formerly Shanghai Mosquito Net Company 上海帐子公司)

Founded in 1942, the Shanghai Mosquito Net Company specialized in mosquito nets and bedroom supplies. It was known for its quality and for pioneering "12 holes per inch" netting to keep mosquitoes out while allowing breathability.

The rebranded Shanghai Bedroom Products Co. offers everything from nostalgic linens to modern home essentials. The store is now a curated lifestyle hub with premium domestic and international brands, but it still has the charm that made it a Shanghai family wedding staple.

Address: 740 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路740号

3rd Stop: Shen Da Cheng (沈大成)

Founded in 1875, Shen Da Cheng began as a humble porridge shop. By 1897, founder Shen Ajin pivoted to focus on Suzhou-style pastries, establishing what would become one of the most beloved dessert brands in Shanghai. Its name, Da Cheng, implies "greatness in snack-making," and that legacy continues to this day.

The shop specializes in taro cakes, sticky rice balls, red bean cakes, green rice dumplings, and Double Ninth Festival cakes.

After surviving wars and urban renovations, the shop expanded into a two-story space offering quick snacks, full meals, and elegant dining to meet diverse customer needs.

It has launched frozen food lines, built a large Songjiang production base, and promoted e-commerce and cross-brand collaboration. Creative products like cheese-flavored mooncakes and matcha milk rice balls have attracted young customers. Shen Da Cheng remains a harmonious blend of old flavors and modern flair.

Address: 636 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路636号

4th Stop: Sanyang Grocery Store (三阳南货店)

Founded in 1870, Sanyang Grocery Store has been a haven for specialty groceries from across China, from seaweed-flavored pork to Ningbo-style pastries. As the only time-honored food store on Nanjing Road that has never changed location or name, it holds a special place in local tradition, especially during the Chinese New Year.

The recently renovated flagship store combines heritage with contemporary flair. It features distinct zones like the "Sanyang Old Flavor" area and the "Wufu Workshop" for fresh, handmade treats. Playful branding, modern packaging, and IP characters such as "Ning Xiao Le" breathe new life into its storied legacy, captivating younger audiences and seasoned shoppers alike.

Address: 630 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路630号

5th Stop: Wang Bao He (王宝和)

Wang Bao He, the "Ancestor of Crab Banquets," is known for its Shaoxing yellow wine and expertly prepared crab dishes. Starting as a small wine inn in 1744, the establishment has become a cultural institution and beloved of the literati and aristocrats for its high-quality wine and seasonal crab feasts.

By the 20th century, Wang Bao He had become a full-fledged restaurant. Today, its signature "Golden Autumn Crab Banquet," featuring delicacies made from Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs, is a much-anticipated culinary event. In recent years, the brand has innovated further with unique creations like crayfish buffets and Shaoxing-flavored dishes, making it a must-visit for gourmets.

Address: 555 Jiujiang Road 九江路555号

6th Stop: Lao Feng Xiang (老凤祥)

On Nanjing Road E., Lao Feng Xiang shines with gold, diamonds, and a 170-year legacy. This famous jewelry house started as a small shop in Shanghai's old town, Feng Xiang Yu Ji (凤祥裕记银楼), in 1848 during the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). Feng Xiang, which combines the phoenix with good fortune, has long symbolized feminine grace and the desire for happiness through adornment.

Today, Lao Feng Xiang is one of China's most prestigious jewelry brands, ranked among the "top 100 global jewelry companies" and repeatedly featured in Fortune's China 500 list.

The flagship store on Nanjing Road E. has three floors: the first two display gold, silver, platinum, and diamond jewelry, while the third offers gem testing. It's more than a shop – it sparkles with the city's love of beauty, tradition, and craftsmanship.

Address: 432 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路432号

7th Stop: Zhang Xiao Quan Scissors (张小泉剪刀)

Zhang Xiao Quan is a legendary name in Chinese craftsmanship, with a heritage of over 300 years. Although its headquarters are in Hangzhou, its prominent Nanjing Road E. store is a proud representation of Shanghai's artisanal culture.

Known for their traditional forging methods, now a recognized intangible cultural heritage, Zhang Xiao Quan scissors have been presented as imperial tributes and favored by generations for their precision and durability. The brand has consistently battled counterfeits with innovative markings and stone-carved signs since the 17th century.

Whether for tailoring, gardening, or daily use, Zhang Xiao Quan products embody the spirit of artisanal pride, reflecting both a technical legacy and a household familiarity in Chinese homes.

Address: 490 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路490号

8th Stop: Hengdeli Clock & Watch Store (亨得利钟表店)

Hengdeli Clock & Watch Store on Nanjing Road E. combines the heritage of two legendary brands, Hengdeli (亨得利) and Hengdali (亨达利). It represents over 150 years of Chinese horological history.

The "two Hengs" (两亨), dating back to the 19th century, shaped China's modern watch industry.

Hengdeli began as Ermiaochun (二妙春), a small workshop in Ningbo in 1874, specializing in clock, eyeglass, and phonograph repairs. It became famous after moving to Shanghai in 1915 and pioneering a national warranty system that allowed customers to repair watches for free at any branch.

Hengdali, founded in 1864 by French entrepreneurs, was known for its high-end European watches and Swiss precision after integrating with Shanghai's Meihuari Clock Company (美华利钟表行) in the early 20th century.

Today's Hengdeli on Nanjing Road E. represents the fusion of these two historic brands, as well as a symbol of enduring trust, refined craftsmanship, and Shanghai's role as the beating heart of horology in China. Inside, you'll still find elite repair services, professional consultation, and a curated selection of prestigious timepieces that honor the legacy of both names.

Address: 456 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路456号

9th Stop: Cai Tong De Tang Traditional Pharmacy (蔡同德堂)

Cai Tong De Tang was founded in 1882 at the heart of Nanjing Road E. It is one of China's earliest Chinese medicine shops – its signature plaque symbolizing health and trust for generations.

Founder Cai Hongyi moved the store from Hankou in Hubei Province to Shanghai, combining storefront sales with a production facility. The pharmacy was known for high-quality herbs, handmade pills, tinctures, and ointments. It even had a factory making medicinal wine and pastes from donkey-hide gelatin and tiger bones.

Today, Cai Tong De Tang is known for its legacy and its human approach to health care, offering free consultations, mail orders, personalized prescriptions, and quality authentication. China's GSP and GMP certifications make it a trusted name in Chinese medicine that combines tradition and technology.

Address: 450 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路450号

10th Stop: Duo Yun Xuan (朵云轩)

Founded in 1900, Duo Yun Xuan started as a shop selling fine paper and fans. What truly elevated it was its mastery of woodblock watermark printing, a rare and intricate traditional Chinese craft. Soon, it became a hub for literati and painters, earning the nickname "home of Chinese painting and calligraphy."

Duo Yun Xuan not only sold materials but also helped launch the careers of numerous artists, offering a platform and market for their work. Its support of traditional arts has made it an institution in the cultural landscape of Shanghai.

In the modern era, Duo Yun Xuan continues to promote traditional Chinese aesthetics through exhibitions, workshops, and cultural collaborations, while staying grounded in its artistic roots.

Address: 422 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路422号

End Point: Wang Kai Photo Studio (王开照相馆)

Wang Kai Photo Studio, established in 1923, occupies a distinctive place in Shanghai's cultural history. During the height of the Republic of China era, it was the leading venue for celebrities, elites and couples seeking portrait photography. The studio even held exclusive rights to photograph significant events, including the Far East Games.

What set Wang Kai apart was its technical finesse, using a proprietary four-stage water washing technique to ensure lasting quality. Its archives include images of iconic stars from Shanghai's golden age of cinema, making the studio not just a business but a historical vault.

Today, it continues to serve visitors seeking classic-style portraits and a brush with Shanghai's glamorous past.

Address: 378 Nanjing Road E. 南京东路378号