Maison Margiela Ditches Paris for Shanghai. It Was Historic.

Fact of the day: Shanghai just announced itself as a global fashion capital, and the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection is the proof. Whether you follow the fashion zeitgeist closely or couldn't care less about it, let me be clear: This is a very big deal, not just for the people involved, but for where this city is headed.

You might be wondering, who is Margiela and what is his Maison? Well, to put it simply, Maison (Martin) Margiela is one of the architects of modern fashion, whose influence and vision is still echoed in modern designers' work to this day. Oh, he is also a man from Belgium who keeps his personal affairs a secret. Currently, the creative director of Margiela's namesake brand is Glenn Martens. Having his debut Artisanal collection back in summer of 2025, Glenn has some big shoes to fill by taking creative control of the brand. Not only was it founded by the legend Martin Margiela; Glenn's predecessor was the equally legendary John Galliano, another architect of modern fashion.

So, you might be asking, what actually has happened? April 1, an ironic date, that's for sure; Maison Margiela has taken their Fall 26 (ready-to-wear) and (most importantly) Artisanal show outside of the fashion capital, Paris. This has never happened before, by the way. It is reported that this decision stems from the brand's desire for a stronger connection with one of their main audiences, China. The CEO of the brand, Gaetano Sciuto, told Vogue, "for the next few weeks, my feeling is that our HQ isn't in Paris anymore: It's right here in China" – if that isn't major, I do not know what is. The Artisanal show is what puts any brand back in the media, it's what makes people talk, gag and make content. Celebrities and influencers from all over the world flew to Shanghai to participate in but also experience the city's unique fashion and cultural landscape. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see the show in person; I still would've been in a state of disbelief. What I did get to attend was the Maison Margiela AW26 Re-See and Artisanal Exhibition, as well as the Maison Margiela Folders (which is currently open to the public).

If you don't know what a re-see is, let me quickly explain. A re-see usually happens right after or a day after the main show. It is a chance for the brand to show off their collection outside of a hectic runway show, just on mannequins or hung on rails for potential clients and appreciators to look at. If it is a ready-to-wear collection, people who get invited are either buyers, collectors or friends of the brand; they can touch the pieces, sometimes try them out and place their orders. Same goes with couture, while artisanal is a bit different. Usually what is meant by artisanal is semi-couture, works of wearable art, one-of-a-kind sculptures made of fabric, clay, leather or whatever designer wants to create with. Most of the time they're treated as museum pieces, not garments you can try on as you please.

In the case of the Maison Margiela AW26, the re-see was both for the commercial ready-to-wear and the one-of-a-kind pieces of the Artisanal runway show. The first floor was dedicated to showcasing some of the standout garments that were featured during the show the day prior. Unfortunately, not every show piece was present; the viral ceramic/glass dress that people are going crazy for online wasn't there, probably for practical reasons. But there was still a lot to look at. Plus, once I entered, Glenn Martens himself was right there, cheerfully meeting some of the attendees. But he left almost immediately. He looked content and proud of himself, as he should however.

I will quickly go through the re-see highlights, since I don't think it was open to the public, then we'll move to the actual exhibition outside. What makes Margiela's (and Glenn's) unique design language is intellectual innovation. Famous for deconstruction and material manipulation, Maison wasn't planning on scaling back their ambitions. Through his bold design language, Glenn Martens has channeled the uniqueness of Martin and the grandeur of Galliano, in both the artisanal and the commercial sectors. And we cannot forget to mention the oh-so-obvious mask. Almost every look featured some sort of face cover, either matching the materials used in the garment or evoking this creepy, but beautiful porcelain doll visage. A Margiela staple, to take attention away from the models and focus it exclusively on the creations. What I personally appreciate most about Glenn's specific work is his ability to showcase his established personal style, while simultaneously giving reverence to either his predecessors, or the brand ethos that he is in charge of. Even though he hasn't started his own house yet, each fashion label that he's overseen has created a cult following, like Y Project (rip) and Diesel. And with Maison Margiela having one of the "cultiest" followings, Glenn has to swing big, but accurate.

What surprised me the most walking through the exhibition was the number of languages I was hearing all around me. Turns out (not surprisingly), people from all around the world flew in not only to attend a more social/networking event, which is the actual show, but also the more intimate, close-up appreciation of the garments. Japanese, Korean, French, German, I couldn't keep up. Speaking of German, I heard an incredibly well-dressed girl speaking with someone in German, and I just felt obliged to compliment her on her OOTD and find out what she does for a living. Turns out, her name was Alina and she was a Russian girl who moved to Germany a long time ago. That was her second Shanghai visit, she got a personal invitation from MM (lucky!). When I asked her how the Shanghai fashion scene differs from the German one, she said, "German scene is very DIY, while Shanghai people are always wearing something new and chic," which is a fair assessment.

Now moving to the exhibition. One thing Shanghai knows how to do is throw a fancy pop-up together. Dozens of metal crates were transformed into fashion time capsules, displaying brand creations spanning decades. Those red, blue and green chunks of metal, contrasting the opulence and craftsmanship of the garments, all framed in the blossoming cherry trees of Yandang Road, what a scene. From the iconic spring/summer 2009 Hair Coat, previously held at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, to the viral spring/summer 2024 porcelain doll ensemble by John Galliano. Maison gave Shanghai its most valuable creations, once again cementing the fact that couture is an integral part of culture and the arts. Giving the public an opportunity to admire art freely is a crucial responsibility of a city that wants to be regarded as a cultural center for people to come and experience; Shanghai has set this goal for itself and is reaching it at a tremendous speed.