A Neighborhood of Heritage Villas, Cafés and Hidden Jazz Clubs

Emilie El Jaouhari calls Shanghai's old neighborhoods home and inspiration. She relocated to Shanghai two years ago with her husband and three sons after 16 years in Paris, Dubai, and Hong Kong.

Her career has spanned book publishing, art, and cultural events, including launching Culture Plus, a Hong Kong cultural promotion website.

She now creates mixed-media art and paper collages while exploring Wulumuqi Road M.'s everyday life.

She highlights the heritage villas, tree-lined lanes, antique boutiques, small cafés, Sichuan restaurants, and hidden jazz clubs that make this corner of Xuhui District feel like home.

Could you introduce the neighborhood you live in?

I live on Wulumuqi Road M., between Anfu Road and Changle Road, in Xuhui District.

What's the best thing about living in this neighborhood?

I am deeply in love with my neighborhood. This is my bubble. Stepping out of my apartment and being able to walk or cycle along the surrounding tree-lined streets is such a joy.

The neighborhood is home to many preserved heritage buildings and mansions, but it is also filled with local and traditional shops alongside trendy cafés, restaurants, and boutiques. I love witnessing the city's history and the passage of time, while also seeing new pop-up stores, cafés and restaurants constantly emerge. There is always something changing, yet the neighborhood never loses its character.

What attraction here should not be missed?

I love Ferguson Lane on Wukang Road, with its heritage architecture and Art Deco character, flower boutiques, bistros and trendy shops. It is one of those places where you can simply wander around and enjoy the atmosphere.

What is your favorite cafe near your home?

I love Sunset, located at 60 Yanqing Road, which is both a café and a boutique. I really like its warm, cinematic atmosphere, where you can enjoy a latte while browsing wellness products, crafts and photography.

I am also a fan of the vintage-inspired In Dough We Trust (47-7 Yongfu Road 永福路47-7), with its Oscar Wilde quotation on the marble at the entrance. The café is cozy and warm, with beautiful tiles and wood details. They serve bread, pastries, and sandwiches, making it perfect for brunch or le goûter (afternoon snack), as we say in French. And their mooncake is the best I have ever eaten!

Where should someone eat around here?

Blaz on Donghu Road is a favorite. Founded by a fellow Frenchman, the restaurant is tucked inside a historic old villa, with a lovely terrace that reminds me of Spain. I love their beef tartare, bone marrow, foie gras, and croquettes – and don't even get me started on the desserts!

On Sunday nights, we love eating at Cheers Burger, located at the corner of Changshu Road and Yanqing Road. It's a tiny place, so we often end up eating on the street! Their Hanoi burger is my favorite, with its Vietnamese taste.

I also discovered Sichuan Citizen on Ferguson Lane last year. First, I love the location and the restaurant's vibrant decor, with its rich red tones and classic palm fans. And Sichuan cuisine is my favorite! I can never name just one favorite dish. I usually follow their recommendations and suggestions, and I am never disappointed.

From high fashion to emerging designers, from flowers to fresh produce, where do you shop in your neighborhood?

As a vintage lover, I feel very lucky to live in this neighborhood.

My favorite spot is Lolo Love Vintage (Unit 105, 270 Wukang Road 武康路270号105) , a rare gem on Wukang Road filled with beautiful clothes and accessories dating from the 1920s to the 1960s. Lolo, the boutique owner, is also a designer and creates her own vintage-inspired collections. It is a paradise for me.

OODD Vintage (1/F, Lane 116, Changshu Road) is the go-to place for curated and unique designer pieces. You can find rare pieces by designers such as Gaultier, Galliano, Kenzo and Lacroix from the 1980s and 1990s. I also love the shop's distinctive decoration, with unique touches such as hangers featuring the faces of iconic designers.

Is there a neighborhood place you recommend for a night out or simply a drink after work?

Heyday Jazz Bar (50 Tai'an Road 泰安路50号) is a small and intimate jazz club that reminds me of the glamorous Shanghai of the 1920s and 1930s. They have live music every night, making it a wonderful place to spend an evening.

Have you made any new discoveries in your neighborhood lately?

I recently discovered a local brand called Double Happiness (720 Changle Road 长乐路720号), created by designer Hu Fangfang, on Changle Road. The concept store focuses on apparel and accessories featuring the traditional Chinese "Double Happiness" symbol.

I bought a beautiful camel-colored jacket and a long necklace, and I absolutely love them.