[Weekend Escape] 2hrs From Shanghai, An Abandoned Island Village

Part of the 400-island Shengsi Archipelago in Zhejiang Province, Gouqi Island – dubbed China's "Little Greece" – is famous for its rugged coastlines and rich maritime history. It is particularly prized for Houtouwan, an abandoned village where creeping ivy has completely overtaken the stone homes following a steady population decline that ended in 2002.

Why Did It Become Abandoned?

Established in the 1950s, the village was once home to more than 3,000 residents and was a prosperous fishing community. At its 1980s peak, it was nicknamed "Little Taiwan" for its prosperity. But over time, part of its charm (the seclusion) contributed to hardship, as well as changes to economic conditions. Most of the village's 600 families ultimately left because it lacked proper roads and a school. As one former resident put it, transportation was so inconvenient that it was difficult for teachers to reach Houtouwan from the main town – "They arrived in the dark and left in the dark." Then, changing geography also took its toll. The harbor that fed the village became too shallow for modern trawlers, undermining the economic base of the entire community.

What Houtouwan Looks Like Now?

The abandoned village has been dramatically reclaimed by nature. In Houtouwan's wet, warm environment, abandonment produced an explosion of biological growth that covered the village within a decade; dense climbing vines now blanket the stone houses, many of which still contain their original furniture. If you've ever wondered what a decade looks like when all people vanished, Houtouwan gives a window into that scenario.

Today the Island Still Has People

Outside of Houtouwan village, the island is a hub for mussel farming, as it's playfully dubbed the "Mussel Capital of China," along with abundant shellfish and other seafood. With its serene, sand-dusted seaside and quiet atmosphere, Gouqi Island is the ultimate weekend escape for anyone looking to trade the relentless energy of Shanghai for a tranquil, untouched retreat.

Getting There

The journey to arrive at Gouqi Island is a scenic adventure in combining both bus and ferry.

You can book a direct combo ticket in advance via the Shengsi Passenger Transport (嵊泗客运) WeChat mini-program or buy it in person at the Nanpu Bridge bus station.

Here are two streamlined options for your trip:

Option 1: Quick & Direct (Recommended)

Step 1: Bus to Terminal: Board the bus at Nanpu Bridge. It will take you across the massive Donghai Bridge (or East China Sea Bridge, one of the longest trans-Atlantic sea bridges in the world) to the Shenjiawan Ferry Terminal in roughly 1 hour and 15 minutes. From there, the ferry companies operate on a flexible schedule that is confirmed a day in advance.

Step 2: Ferry to Island: Transfer directly to the ferry for a scenic ride to Gouqi Island

The second travel option involves taking an indirect route by island-hopping through Shengsi Island (Sijiao Island). This is a useful alternative if the direct combo tickets from Shanghai to Gouqi Island are sold out.

Option 2: The Island-Hopping Route (Alternative)

Step 1: Shanghai to Shengsi Island: You travel from Shanghai's Nanpu Bridge to Shengsi Island (also known as Sijiao Island), which has much higher ferry frequency and more available tickets.

Step 2: Shengsi to Gouqi Island: You then transfer to a local connection ferry at the Shengsi port to reach Gouqi Island.

Ferry Options

Fast Ferry: Takes about 2 hours and costs 174 yuan (US$25.73) per person.

Slow Ferry: A scenic route that stops at Shengsi Island, taking around 3.5 hours for a ticket price of 118 yuan. Note that deboarding at Shengsi is not allowed unless the plan is to stay there overnight.

Upon arrival at Gouqi Island, small buses are available for 4 yuan, making it easy to reach popular spots like Dawang Beach. Taxis are also available for 50-60 yuan for short rides around the island.

To Do

1) Explore Houtouwan Village

Houtouwan village on Gouqi Island is a hauntingly beautiful, abandoned fishing community reclaimed by nature. Time seems to stand still in this otherworldly ghost town, where thick, lush vines cloak sturdy stone homes in a green embrace.

Key Details & Tips

Location: Shengshan Island (connected to Gouqi Island by a short bridge)

Entrance Fee: 50-60 yuan depending on the platform/season

Time Needed: 1-2 hours for exploration

Essentials: Bring bug spray and aim to visit before sunset

2) Relax at Dawang Beach

Dawang Beach, the island's largest, features soft sand, clear blue waters, and scenic cliffs for a 25 yuan entrance fee. For a quieter, secluded, and free experience, simply take a short walk to the less crowded beaches located just to the north.

3) Savor Local Seafood

Steeped in a rich fishing heritage, Gouqi Island is renowned for its fresh mussels and shellfish. For the ultimate experience, head to the bustling seafood strip around Dawang Beach, where you can pick your catch straight from the tank. A filling feast for two typically costs between 120-250 yuan. For a highly authentic and welcoming meal, visit Yu Dangjia (魚當家), a local favorite celebrated for its friendly service and daily fresh catch.

4) Cycle the Rainbow Highway

Rent a bike or electric scooter and take a scenic drive down the Rainbow Highway's coastal roads that cross nearby fishing villages, sun-soaked beaches, and sprawling vistas.

5) Visit Nearby Shengshan Island

Connected by a walkable bridge, visit Shenghshan island, full of hiking trails that provide views over mussel farms and the coastline.

6) Soak Up Sunset at Ganxie Village

Perched on the island's western edge, Ganxie Village is the perfect spot to watch the sunset. As evening approaches, the sky lights up over a bustling mussel farm, where hundreds of moored fishing boats create a dramatic, picturesque end to your day on the water.

Where to Stay

Accommodation options on Gouqi Island are varied, from guesthouses offering a more rustic stay to established hotels providing a taste of luxury. For a more local experience, check in to Haiquanju Fisherman's Homestay (海泉居渔家民宿) at Dawang Beach replete with ocean views family-style service, or spring for AIXIA (爱夏), a contemporary boutique property outfitted to resemble Santorini villas.

Practical Tips

Return Tickets: Buy your return tickets while on the island, as ferry schedules are only released a day in advance.

Cashless Payments: Most places accept WeChat and Alipay, so carrying cash is not necessary. However, credit cards are generally not accepted. International visitors can connect their credit card to Alipay in advance.

Language Barrier: Minimal English is spoken, so having a translation app (like Google Translate, as well as local AI tools such as Kimi and Doubao) is helpful.

Duration of Stay: A weekend trip of 2-3 days is sufficient to explore and enjoy the island.

Best Time to Visit: Make sure to visit in summer when the green village is in full bloom.

Reminder: Bring bug spray/mosquito repellent as well as good sunscreen.